Nitmiluk National Park, N.T.

Temperature at 8.31 a.m.:  20oC
Nit nit = cicada
Walks today:  Bemang Lookout, Upper Pool, Middle Pool, (Leliyn Trail).
Edith (Leliyn) Falls.
All followed by shopping at Katherine then that promised wheel alignment at Katherine East (phew!).
Boy was it hot by the time we arrived at Katherine East.
Unleaded petrol:  $1.289 per litre (unleaded)
LPG:  $0.89 per litre.

Controlled burning.  In the Northern Territory, fire management of the national parks etcetera is a carefully carried out process whereby a patchwork effect of burning off of bushland is carried out. 
*
After leaving Katherine, we drove about one hundred kilometres south to Mataranka, a place of thermal springs.
The caravan park we booked into for the night is a short walk from Bitter Springs, a comfortable thirty four degrees Celsius thermal pool in the Elsey National Park. 

Here's Honey Pie having a dip at Bitter Springs Thermal Pool, Mataranka, which we visited before dinner. 

How Hot is Hot?

At eight in the morning, it's almost seventeen degrees Celsius, not too bad I hear you say?  Temperature climbs quickly.
Our caravan park is on the way to Katherine Gorge on the Katherine River.


If I don't show you this sign you won't believe me will you ?
This was at the entrance of the Katherine River Gorge Lookout walk.
The river tours were booked out.  

Discrimination of a different kind?

Controlled burning. We ventured down to Katherine Springs to be confronted by this.  No closures, no warnings, just stay away from the smoke, tourists were told.  We left without really getting a chance to enjoy the springs.

Great place to cool off at the end of a hot day.
Plunge pool at Nitmiluk National Park, Katherine.
After completing the gorge walk (not as impressive as we'd hoped) we drove back into town (temperature still rising) and did some shopping and searched for a suitable outlet to get the car's wheels aligned...no luck, but one guy suggested we call him again tomorrow morning as he might be able to fit the service in then.
We also visited Katherine Springs but as you can see above, not much luck there either.
Next stop, Edith Falls, (Leilyn Falls) on the Edith River north from Katherine. (Same national park as Katherine Gorge.)
We camped at the national park, within walking distance of the trails.  Once again we were lucky to get a camp site...caravan spots were very limited.
That night we were offered a free talk by the park ranger where we learned about the joint management of the park by the Northern Territory government and the traditional owners and the day to day management of the park.

More Dirt

Driving the Northern Territory brings no surprises.  The countryside reminds me a lot of the Hawkesbury region of N.S.W.
After vouching to stay off dirt roads-what do we do?  Drive thirty six kilometres on dirt, off the Victoria Highway, west of Katherine to visit the falls of the Flora River.  (And back again.)
So creepy walking along the river bank...
In Katherine in time for lunch, which we have at The Coffee Club...ahhh, air conditioning!  It's so hot in town.
Visit N.T. Rare Rocks where we purchase a few samples of rock specific to the region.
Find many interesting specimens.
Here we're able to get telephone coverage so catch up with family and especially, one certain Birthday Boy!
We were very lucky to get a camp site tonight, managed to get tucked in behind a nice shady hedge without being crowded out.

Kathleen Falls, Flora Nature Reserve, N.T.

Longtom and Archer Fish.
Beware of Crocs!

A Night at Katherine.  Lucky to find a camp!  

Crossing Over

After a delightful breakfast of pancakes and maple syrup we did a tour of Lake Argyle (largest man made lake in Australia), Ord River Dam and Durrack Family Homestead.


Lake Argyle - Diamond Mine close by...but no visitors allowed.
Home of Argyle Pink Diamonds.
Also home of Primordial Rock, only found in the East Kimberley region of  Western Australia.

Wattle?  Durrack Homestead.
Durrack Homestead if had not been moved would be at the bottom of the dam today.

Crossed the Northern Territory border at noon (N.T. Time).

Gregory's Tree, Dated July 2nd 1858.  Now a tree of significance. 


Timber Creek was considered for the night but we decided to continue on to Gregory's National Park where we found a 'real' camp at Sullivan's.  We were the only ones camped there to start with, but not for long!  Full house before the moon was high in the sky.

Signs

Last night we booked into Parry Creek Farm rather than staying in Wyndham proper.  We wanted to visit the Parry Lagoons this morning so this was nice and close to our camp.  The Farm is a great place to stay.  It is studded with boab trees along the creek with lots of grass to spread out our camp.  An added bonus was the swimming pool where Honey Pie cooled off after dusk last night.
We were up bright and early this morning (had laundry to attend to), and soon on our way.

Kapok Bush Fruit and Blossom
Parry Lagoons Nature Reserve is a bird watcher's paradise. Boardwalks with bird-hides skim the edge of one of the lagoons and one could easily spend hours with camera and, or, binoculars, bird watching.
The Kapok Bush grows abundantly in the area and this plant is used by the Aborigines to determine the best time for hunting crocodiles and collecting their eggs.  When the bush is in flower this signals the time when the crocodiles are carrying eggs, when in fruit, the young crocodiles are hatching.  

Which Way's The Best Way?
Quite some time ago, Andrew and I decided that we would take the Savannah Way to Cairns.  We have often tossed up the idea of driving the Gibb River Road although this had not been our original plan.  Many fellow travellers have sung the praises of the Gibb River Road yet have also described less than desirable road conditions along the six hundred odd kilometres of four wheel drive road.  Another option we had considered was to enter the Gibb River Road from the east end and visit El Questro and Emma Gorge.  If we are to do that then now is when we should be doing it.
We decide that we have had enough of hard four wheel driving and that we don't have the time we would like to devote to this part of the world.  So it's off to Kununurra for what turns out to be an afternoon.
Visited the markets on our arrival, as well as an art gallery and the Ivanhoe Crossing. Then time for some retail therapy beginning with a yummy salad for lunch at the Ivanhoe Farm Cafe where we ate al fresco under the mango trees.
Next The Sandalwood Factory followed by The Hoochery Distillery just in time for afternoon tea, or was that drink?
We both managed to spend equal amounts of dollars at our respective favourite retail outlet without even trying!

Sign of the Times.
This photograph was taken two days after Julia Gillard was inducted as Australia's new prime minister.  Quick off the draw!

Partial Eclipse of a Full Moon at Lake Argyle Inn Caravan Park


After leaving Kununurra we drove to Lake Argyle Village at the Ord River Dam to spend the night.  We find the campground very full but manage to get a spot very close to the amenities.
Unexpectedly, we had a marvellous view of a partial eclipse of the full moon at seven thirty.
Planning to have pancakes for brekky tomorrow.

I Thought We'd Seen It All, Then We Came To Wyndham!

Wyndham:
Week 12.
15,000 Kilometres.
Beautiful.


Mark, this one's for you.  Here we are camped at Doon Doon. Great Caravan Park and Roadhouse managed and owned by the local Indigenous Community.  Last night we learned we had a new Prime Minister!
We were planning to stay at Turkey Creek last night but the attitude there didn't go down well with Honey Pie.  It was also very crowded at the caravan park so we decided to head-tail it to the next stop at Doon Doon.  So glad we did.  Lovely people, lovely service and a nice quiet and small caravan park.  Almost a full moon...it was a beautiful night.  We had dinner at the roadhouse because we were so exhausted after our day at Purnululu N.P.

The Grotto, discovered this as we drove into Wyndham. One hundred and forty something steps to the water...after yesterday's hikes we thought we'd give it a miss!  And who should we run into while there?  Mark and Mal nonetheless!!!  Had a good catch-up.

Willow, this one's for you.  (It's pretend!)  Right in the middle of Wyndham.


Not far from the above structure is the post office where I went to buy some stamps.  I could have done a week's shopping in there!

Once again, photographs do Wyndham no justice.  The view from Five Rivers Lookout is something to behold.


I just loved Wyndham Port.  It is a town that time forgot.  We visited a resident artist in her studio that must be about seventy years old if not more (The studio that is).  So idyllic, here she did her lino-prints at her leisure and supplemented her income with a week's work once a month.
We also visited a little knick knack shop that sold souvenirs as well as 'antiques', no windows here...just shutters which were open to the world and the exhausting heat.  Oh, and the dust too.
Next door we were able to take a reprieve from the stifling heat in a little outdoor eatery.  Cooled off with a cold drink and a barra hamburger filled our tummies.

Echidna Chasm and Mini Palms Gorge

Echidna Chasm
Despite the fact that we started our walks early this morning, it was hot even before we'd begun.  The Echidna Chasm walk was relatively easy but in hindsight, should have been completed after the Mini Palms Gorge walk.

Livistonia Palms are plentiful in and around Echidna Chasm.
It is amazing how these hills just wrap around each other.  Also quite scary at how close the 'walls' of the chasm can be.  The 'ranges' here are composed of little pebbles all glued together with soil and even in the short time we were in the chasm, a few came tinkling down from above us.  Rock fall warnings are a very present reality here. 

The palms are so graceful, growing towards the light, in the Echidna Chasm area.

Mini Palms Gorge entry.
The Mini Palms Gorge walk was quite a difficult walk for me to complete.  By the time we'd arrived at the start of the walk, it was very hot.  To reach the entry of the gorge, we walked quite a distance, in full sun, along the rocky bed of a creek.  The time in the gorge was very short indeed compared to the amount of time we were actually walking.  The walk back, well, it was hot!
Had lunch at the car park, drove many kilometres back to the visitors' centre, and then began the fifty one kilometres back to the highway.
Could the road have deteriorated so much in just over twenty four hours?  Or were we just tired?  The major water crossing completed the previous day seemed much deeper, much longer.
Some people drive recklessly on these roads...totally ignoring the fifty kilometre speed limit and putting other people's lives at risk.
Can't imagine what that sort of driving does to one's car.
A poor soul looked like he'd lost the complete front end of his car.
But we did make it out in one piece.  Made a vow to keep four wheel driving to a minimum from here on in.  Guess we're not as adventurous as we once were!

Purnululu National Park, Western Australia

Nothing compares to the Bungle Bungle Ranges.

Left Leycesters Rest – Ord River at seven twenty this morning - after a restful night.

Seven kilometres further north along the Great Northern Highway we turned off to Mabel Downs Station. The access track to Purnululu National Park runs through this property – fifty one kilometres of it, and every bit of it four wheel drive.

After yesterday's report from the visitors' centre, we weren't sure what to expect.

The road was winding, in parts, it was corrugated but not all of it, it was dusty, there were dips and crests and three or four water crossings with one major wet crossing. Sometimes the road turned back on itself. There was one bad stretch, about ten kilometres long, but mostly it was a pleasant drive through very scenic country.
The speed limit is fifty kilometres per hour so I guess fifty one kilometres at fifty kilometres per hour is going to take at least one hour's drive no matter what condition the road is in. A lot of the time we were doing less than fifty kilometres per hour but in the end it took us ninety minutes.

We have chosen an ideal time to visit Purnululu. About four weeks ago the Kimberleys had unseasonal substantial rainfall.

So everything is green and a lot of the wildflowers are out too. Although it is hot, it could be hotter, and we found out that mid winter (or as they call it here, dry season), can see the skies become hazy. So the best time is now!

The hills are punctuated with infinite full stops of startled looking bright green spinifex. The intense blue sky looks so near that each time we topped a crest I felt I could reach out and touch the sky.

We had morning tea at the Kungkalanyi Lookout carpark, after we'd walked to the lookout. There is nothing to compare with the Bungle Bungle Range and its uniqueness is one natural criteria that earned Purnululu World Heritage Listing.

As we turned into Piccaninny Carpark Road,just past the Walardi Campsite, the Bloodwoods took on a soft sage green colour, as if they had been lightly dusted with talcum powder.

The national park is sprinkled with a variety of trees but mostly Bloodwoods, Snappy Gums and Acacias.

At the carpark proper we had a quick, early lunch and started the Domes Walk in pretty hot conditions. I wondered about our decision to head out for a walk at this time of the day but the woman at the park's visitors' centre said we should have no trouble completing the walks at the southern end of the park today.

Once we'd come back to the main track we made our way to the Cathedral Gorge. In the hot sun the spinifex released a warm buttery aroma.

Just after the Potholes we descended about six metres into the gorge by a set of stairs. The temperature dropped dramatically and we were now in full shade and air conditioned comfort!

It wasn't long before we'd reached the end of the track and found ourselves in a phenomenal natural enclosure.

After all the gorges we've visited over the past few weeks, nothing prepared us for the Cathedral Gorge.

We spent around thirty minutes in the gorge, taking photos, sitting and taking the enclosure in, having a drink and talking to other tourist. One man told us that Cathedral Gorge beats the Grand Canyon hands down, mostly because of its remoteness and therefore the small amount of tourist in the enclosure at any one time. Unfortunately we were not able to spend time in the Cathedral on our own, as there were people there when we arrived and more arrived after they left and again before we left.

Not to worry. We then decided to walk eight hundred metres further to the Piccaninny Creek Lookout. By now it was really hot! But once again we found relief at the lookout itself and we were able to spend some time, just the two of us, taking in the scenery and the tranquility. Just so rare to have this combination these days, as we are finding out! A bird came to visit us while we were there and it got close enough for me to take some photographs of it.

We trudged back to the car, arriving at about three, energy drink, more food, and a thirty four kilometre drive to our campsite. (As is typical for Western Australian, nothing is close in the park.)

We set up camp while the sun was setting, (sorry, no sunset photos today, as the campground is under trees and blocks out the ranges and the sunset). Tomorrow we plan to do the walks at the northern end of the park, then after lunch travel a bit further north as we aim for Wyndham.

I thought you might like to know that I typed this sitting at our fold out table, under the stars, balmy breeze blowing, and the moon shining down.

Potholes

How big? Katherine Gorge, Purnululu National Park.

View from Piccaninny Creek Lookout.

Our Journey Continues.

Nothing is close in Western Australian! Yes, we hope to visit all these places.

When we left Fitzroy River Lodge this morning at eight fifteen, the air was calm and the temperature around thirteen degrees. 

Only went a short distance before we stopped the car to take a walk across the Fitzroy River Bridge. 

It was h

eartening to come across an Indigenous Australian with a huge smile and a cheery 'good morning'. O

ne more positive thing to add to an already beautiful day.

Driving along the Great Northern Highway, the landscape changes often and dramatically. Soft lime-green spinifex gives way to rocky outcrops, to sweeping plains, to ranges far and distant or only metres from the road.

A bird of prey soaring above Ngumpan Cliff.

Ngumpan Cliff and Mary Pool provide picturesque scenery and a spot to either camp or picnic. The size, shape and colour of termite nests changes consistently from small and thin to bulbous and tall, from soft beige to dunn, to brilliant pindan. 

The spinifex changes colour too, from soft lime-green to dusty brown to bright green and back again. 

The trees are either non-existent or sparse and the mighty boab is no longer present. Bloodwoods are common now.

Ngumpan Cliff.

Less than one hundred kilometres from Halls Creek and rounded, faded-terracotta coloured boulders spot either side of the highway. 

The temperature is a bit cooler today, helped along by a headwind to keep the heat under control. 

Some of the tourist literature labels this region as 'uninspiring' yet Andrew and I find it tranquil and a welcome change from the harsh Pilbara country. 

We arrive in Halls Creek just on noon and go straight to the Halls Creek Visitors Centre for information about Purnululu National Park and the Bungle Bungle Ranges. 

The standard information is received: Road bad, will take two to three hours to travel fifty odd kilometers. Maybe you'd like to book a one day tour – cost? Almost three hundred dollars per person. No thank you. 

Andrew telephones the ranger at the national park. The Visitors Centre would not make the call for us as they can only call 1800 numbers. (They wouldn't be tour operator numbers now would they?)

On the public telephone, Andrew is told by the ranger that the road is 'pretty good' and people are completing the fifty odd kilometres to the park's visitors' centre in around one and half hours. Also, there is ample camping available. 

We decide to have lunch at the Kimberley Hotel, buy some groceries from IGA then do some sightseeing around Halls Creek and tackle Purnululu tomorrow. 

China Wall is an interesting phenomenon of a natural quartz formation of an unknown distance and after visiting the wall the two of us drive out to look at Old Halls Creek. 

But everything is an adventure here and thinking that Old Halls Creek Town would be just around the corner, we instead find ourselves driving eighteen kilometres out of Halls Creek proper only to discover eighteen kilometres  of corrugated dirt road. 

Oh well, it is a nice drive with spectacular scenery. 

Unfortunately there isn't enough time to explore the old town ruins because we've decided to drive another one hundred kilometres east along the Great Northern Highway, to a rest area not far from the national park entry, where we will camp for the night.  This way the drive out to Purnululu N.P. can be completed while still feeling fresh. 

The wind has calmed down, the temperature is mild, the light is softening and the shadows getting longer. 

Hope to arrive at Ord River by about four thirty.

 
China Wall, near Halls Creek.

Windjana Gorge, Western Australia. So beautiful and so peaceful.  Pity about the 'Freshies'.

I write this from our tent in the unpowered site section of Fitzroy Crossing Lodge. It's amazing that for a town this size (miniscule) that there should be such a large holiday amenitiy. The 'lodge' is right on the Fitzroy River and has a whole spectrum of accommodation ranging from unpowered campsites to Safari Tents and River View Cabins.

We arrived at the Lodge a little later than we would have liked. We were intending to stay at Geiki Gorge National Park for the night only to find that there are no camping facilities there. A bit disappointing but clearly we had not done our homework well enough! Andrew contemplated driving to the next overnight rest area but that was around a hundred kilometres away and decided against that. The blurb in one of the brochures we picked up in the early days of our sojourn into Western Australian about the Lodge sounded inviting and the price was right so here we are. I've yet to test out the amenities but we do sometimes feel that the unpowered tent sites are allocated out in the boom docks of some parks meaning that it's a long walk to the camp kitchen, barbies, laundry and bathrooms when the people that are camping are the ones that need these the most. The patrons with the caravans and mobile homes don't necessarily need camp kitchens or barbeques but they are the ones that are the closest. I remember one campsite we had in the early days, we were so out of the loop that we got lost going back from the bathroom to our tent! It also happens that when we stop at overnight rest areas it's the ones with the biggest rigs, awnings and all, that set up right next to the undercover picnic area etcetera at the free camps. Well, that's my whinge for the day. But it does erk me to see that the ones that have the most end up with even more while those that need it end up without.

Last night we were plunged back into winter which was a bit of a shock after being in Broome for six nights in sweltering heat. We were badly prepared, leaving all the tent flaps open and not taking extra blankets up into the tent when we went to bed. I was cold most of the early morning so tonight we have taken up extra bedding! At seven this morning it was under ten degrees.

Set off to see the gorge after breakfast and we weren't disappointed. Found lots of freshwater crocodiles sunning themselves on the sandy banks. A couple of brolgas were at the waters edge too and seemed undaunted by the crocs. Scores of bats hung from trees along the river bank and we could hear them long before we could see them.

Windjana Gorge is amazing. The Napier Range literally juts out of the ground without warning. The sheer cliffs are a sight to behold especially early morning as the rock face changes colour with the rising sun.

On our return to the tent we had morning tea, packed up the tent and ventured out to Tunnel Creek. Another incredible natural wonder. I'm afraid though I didn't venture too far into the tunnel, it was much too rocky, much too dark and much too wet for me! Andrew went on for a bit of the way without me, but it was still an enjoyable visit.

We continued our drive through what I now consider to be the Kimberelys proper. The countryside changed so often that I can't recall how many times it did change. Some blurbs describe this part of the Kimberelys as uneventful but I found it to be enthralling, especially by how often the landscape and the flora changed. We even managed to spot a small group of brumbies.

Even though the colours of the Kimberelys and the Pilbara are not that different, what I have noticed is that the Kimberelys' colours are softer and a little more muted than the Pilbara. Despite this, Kimberelys' colours are just as intense as the Pilbara's.

Brolgas in Windjana Gorge, enjoying the early morning.  So is the freshwater crocodile in the background.

Mouth open for an early morning catch?

Reckon there were at least twelve of these prehistoric creatures on the sandy bank.

Beauty and the Beast at Windjana Gorge National Park

Last night we stayed at Kimberley Entrance Caravan Park in Derby.

It was good to be back in the tent. We had a good site and the amenities were clean and all in working order. It's amazing how many caravan parks we've been to that are poorly maintained. If something is out of order rarely do you get a discount because of it.

This morning we visited some historical sites in town. One was the Wharfinger Museum. It's a bit scary when you start finding useful things from your childhood in a museum!

The museums we have seen on this trip only highlight the hardships our pioneers would have endured. And to think that so many of them would have come to places like the Kimberelys or the Pilbara from such temperate climates and genteel societies.

What is even more shocking is to discover how the Indigenous Australians were treated and to see so many of them now looking so lost and soul-less. I can only observe and not comment on the situation because I believe I do not have enough knowledge in this area.

I only wonder if all the wrongs can ever be righted.

We visited the Old Derby Goal (Lockup) and I couldn't bear to be there...I could feel the injustices eeked out there as I walked up to the lockup. I left almost as soon as we arrived there, just stopping long enough to read the information boards on site.

Also visited the Bird Observatory but found it very poorly signposted and did not stay, even though there were lots of birds. (But we could not see them because they were in the fenced in bit).

We bought fuel in Derby, $1.62 a litre for unleaded and the LPG was $1.25. That is the dearest we've seen LPG. We haven't used LPG for some time now as we don't believe it's economical at these prices but keep the tank full for emergency only.

We had a short journey today. One hundred and sixty three kilometres to be exact and we rattled in to the Windjana National Park just after lunch.

The Napier Range is glorious, the boab trees are majestic and I just love them.

After choosing a camp spot, close to tap water and the amenities and in the shade of a couple of small trees we relaxed for a while and waited for the temperature to cool down a bit before traipsing down to the gorge.

Ahhh...crocodile country...we will be back tomorrow to do the walk when it's cooler.

Honey Pie thinks it's all a big joke until....

I said, "I think that's a crocodile there." And he said, "Nah, that's not crocodile.  Do you think it's a crocodile?  Nah, do you think it's a crocodile? Hey, it's really a crocodile!"

"Beauty"

Moonrise at sunset over Napier Ranger and Boab Tree.