On Saturday, after barely driving into the place, my Attila the Hun and I had our first major disagreement. Don't ask what it was over because I've got no idea and I'm sure neither does he.
Was it the long silent drive through the outback? Was it some vibe we felt when we first set eyes on this bizarre and barren and apocalyptic place?
Then we had trouble getting accommodation, who would have thought.
Eventually after about five phone calls we found a nice underground motel only to be turned away when we arrived...the room had already been given to a previous enquirer. The hotel owner kindly helped us find other accommodation and we had to settle for a more down market establishment around the hill...
Eating out was a trial, meals expensive, not much available. Found out much later (after we had left) that the best place to eat was at the clubs...if only we could find them!
Living in a dugot, we found, at this time of year is stuffy and hot.
Mounds of dirt everywhere...the residents are just as much miners as the miners themselves! Apparently if you need some extra cash and you live in Coober Pedy...just add another extension to your house, motel, hotel, shop, church and mine the opal. Shafts and piles of dirt remain where they were put...
Every retail establishment I entered felt like it was from an era that time forgot, that is until I walked in the door and suddenly it became brilliantly lit to show gaudy displays, dust, and beneath it all opal jewellery probably overpriced.
But I should mention that there are some very modern establishments in the town and most the accommodation in these places was already full.
Ahh, opals have never been my cup of tea and the reason I so wanted to go to Coober Pedy was to see how people lived in the dugouts. Around fifty percent of the population lives underground.
We tried out the Coober Pedy experience, didn't like it so we left.
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